Needles for Machine Embroidery

A bit of knowledge about needles can save you a lot of hair pulling and disappointment with the final stitch out.

The use of the proper needle has a profound effect on the quality of your Machine Embroidered project.

Embroidery needles work with embroidery threads (i.e. rayon threads, etc.) The needle has a large eye and a specially designed scarf for these very threads.

At first glance, a needle appears to be a sharp thing with a hole in it for the thread. Look closer and you will see that a needle is made of much more:

o The shank is the part that goes into the machine,

o The shaft is how thick the needle is,

o There is a scarf which is a little indent in the back of the needle where the stitch is formed,

o The groove on the front hugs or protects the thread as it goes through fabric (or quilt).

Needle sizes range from 60/8, which is very fine up to 120/19, which is large and heavy duty. Remember, the lower the number the smaller the eye and the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the eye and the thicker the needle.

Experimentation to solve problems is the best advice. Keep a variety of needle types, sizes, and finishes on hand so you will have the tools needed to solve any related problem. The other advice I give is to keep a record of the needle size, fabric, stabalizer and thread also the bobbin thread used in your project. Then you have information to fall back on.



Needle Hints & Tips

Remember when you change:

The needle size or the eye size of the needle, you are changing the tension on the top thread.

The needle size, you are changing the relationship of the needle scarf to the hook point.

The needle point, you are changing the way the needle penetrates the fabric.

FLAT SHANK NEEDLES

This is the standard needle with a flat shank and a regular size eye for most home sewing machines and home sewer based embroidery and quilting machines. It is widely available in a large range of sizes with a sharp or ball point. For Machine embroidery always purchase the special needles that are marked for Embroidery.


ROUND SHANK NEEDLES

This needle is designed especially for industrial /commercial embroidery machines usually multi needle machines. This needle has a one size larger eye than that found in a regular needle


PD (Perfect Durability) NEEDLES

PD needles have a titanium-nitride ceramic finish which makes them more wear-resistant than any other needles. When embroidering large stitch patterns or penetrating very abrasive, dense or tough materials the needle points and surface will maintain its original shape and dimensions 3 to 5 times longer. PD needle points will not wear down as fast as chromium plated needle points. The use of PD needles gives you longer needle life, fewer defects due to "dulled" needle points, and increased productivity.



Metafil / Metallica needles are meant for metallic threads. Choose this needle if your thread has a rough texture. Does the texture of the thread feel lumpy or bumpy? If so this needle type is the ideal choice as the eye is very large and is Teflon-coated to stop friction.

Topstitch needles are perfect for the heavier weight threads and when all else fails! This needle is extra sharp, the eye is very long and the front groove is deep. Having a very long eye means that the needle shaft is not necessarily thick and therefore does not put large holes in the fabric.